Mercado at Etla, Santa Ana del Valle & lots of Tejate

During this busy week we continued our regular Spanish classes at Solexico. On Wednesday we had the opportunity to collectively take a bus to the weekly Etla market. Located in the center of the village, the colorful market offered garlic, oranges, quesillo, onions, black and green pottery, alebrijes, and a variety of electronics and prepared foods. After spending the afternoon observing and interviewing vendors, we collaborated into groups to discuss the politics and organizations of markets such as Etla. After purchasing items from the market, we returned to our studies back in the city, followed by our weekly cafe social.



To the surprise of many, our first Spanish compositions were received well by the Spanish professors at Solexico. With more confidence in our Spanish-speaking abilities, we boarded the vans for a two-day excursion to Santa Ana del Valle; a tranquil village situated by the foothills of the Sierra Norte. Led by Don Ramón, a respected elder of the community, we observed the traditions of the village that have been maintained for centuries. We all had tejate, a Zapotec drink made from corn, flor de cacao, and chocolate, which was prepared for us on a mortar and pestle by one of the indigenous women in the village. Later that day, after comida with a local family, we visited the community museum as well as view a demonstration of the process of rug-weaving. From the unprocessed wool, to the making of the yarn, our group participated throughout most of the process. It was an amazing experience to see, including how they dyed the wool and what natural ingredients they used to color the yarn. It was also incredible to see the intricate hand-craft that went into re-stringing the loom after each rug was completed.

The next morning, a group of students was led by Don Ramón to hike one of the mountains at the foothills of the Sierra Norte that was collectively owned by the community. Although difficult, and early in the morning, the views of the sunrise on the valley were far more rewarding. Before reluctantly leaving, we attended a talk with a curandera (medicinal healer) who told us her story of the way her son and herself had received their God-led gift to heal people using a wide variety of flora and fauna. In her beautiful patio, we viewed one of the healer’s common ceremonies (limpia-a cleansing) for ridding bad energy, fright (susto), and sadness (tristeza), where she used natural herbs, aroma, and aromatic incense. It was nice to return to our normal routine in Oaxaca City, but surely that many of us will return to the beautiful Santa Anna to purchase hand-made rugs, visit the town’s historic museum and revisit our friends from the village.
Micky & Jack LaubBge.